Portland is widely known for the variety and quality of its restaurant scene. For many years, it has gained extensive recognition by numerous national and international publications, and many of Portland’s restaurants have been decorated with prestigious awards. In recent years, one of the most impressive aspects of the Portland food scene has been the soaring popularity and success of individual food carts and food cart pods. According to The Oregonian, Portland is home to about 1,000 carts, and was recently named the best food cart city in America by Food and Wine magazine, a title that comes as no surprise to most Portlanders.
Judging by the popularity of culinary arts at Franklin, many students have shown interest in pursuing a career in the restaurant industry. Food carts can be a great way to enter into food service and the culinary field, with minimal investment and start-up cost. Some of Portland’s most well-known restaurants have started out as food carts themselves, including Güero — a Mexican restaurant specializing in tortas — which was named one of Bon Appétit magazine’s best new restaurants in 2017. PDX Sliders started out similarly; it now has several locations around the city, and was named one of the Best Burgers in America by National Geographic.
Fried balls of rice, freshly chopped herbs, and cured pork — all sprayed with lime juice and carefully wrapped in a leaf of lettuce. This traditional Lao dish, called Nam Khao, is a favorite at Khao Niew, a food cart serving up some of the best Lao food in the city. The cart opened in April of 2022, and has quickly become a favorite among community members seeking a delicious bite to eat. Owner and chef Phimmoungkhoun Thavatsay says that for many, “Food carts can be a more accessible way into the restaurant industry,” adding that it has a “lower overhead cost, so if and when failure happens, it is easier to overcome.”
For many hoping to enter the restaurant industry, food carts can be a unique entry point that allows you to grow your business into a permanent brick and mortar space, if that’s your business’ goal. However, nothing is promised, and it is still a rocky road. “You have to give 110% of everything,” Thavatsay adds. “Food is word of mouth, if you serve bad food to one person, you don’t just lose that customer, you lose their friends, family, and their acquaintances too.”
Faisal Obeidi, a 20-year-old student at Portland State University, knows first-hand the work it takes opening and running your own food cart. Owner and chef of Sheesh Shawarma, Obeidi serves up some excellent dishes. For many college students, the idea of opening a restaurant would seem out of the question, but Obeidi has met the experience head on, recognizing how it’s “both challenging and enlightening.”
Obeidi first learned to cook among his family. “My journey to cooking began in my family’s kitchen, deeply rooted in the culinary traditions of Palestine and Jordan,” Obeidi explains. “I grew up surrounded by the scents and flavors of our traditional dishes. I’ve also learned a lot from my dad who taught me everything.”
For aspiring cooks or business managers seeking to enter into the restaurant industry — especially students and young adults — Obeidi says connecting with culture alongside lots of hard work is key. “My advice is to embrace your heritage and be open to learning new things,” says Obeidi, reminding us that “The food industry requires hard work, passion, and a willingness to experiment and adapt. Your unique background can be your greatest asset, so weave it into your food!”
Matthew Vicedomini is an example of the success that can grow out of food carts. He is known for the massive success of his carts: Matt’s BBQ, and the later iteration, Matt’s BBQ Tacos. Vicedomini’s carts have been decorated with a plethora of awards including Bon Appetit’s 10 Best New Restaurants of 2019, and The Oregonian’s Best Carts of 2019.
Before opening his own place, Vicedomini began his career as a chef. “I cooked in restaurants for about 10 years before deciding to open my own thing,” Vincedomini says. “I loved the creativity of cooking and was attracted to the intensity and challenge of working the line in a busy restaurant that puts out amazing food. This led me to working in a Michelin starred restaurant in New York City.” Michelin stars are the most prestigious award a restaurant can get. Vicedomini elaborates that he “grew tired of making ‘fancy food for rich people’ and wanted to do something that still offered the same challenge and attention to detail but was more affordable and accessible to all.”
When Vincedomini decided to open his own place, a food cart was the most ideal option. “I didn’t have very much money and bought an old trailer for $600 and fixed it up myself.” He has since expanded to a permanent storefront alongside his carts, running the kitchen at Great Notion Brewing. He is also a co-founder of Eem, a Thai barbecue spot in Northwest Portland. Vincedomini says his advice for anyone pursuing a future in the culinary field is that, “Everyone starts at the bottom. If you are willing to learn and work hard you will have little issue finding success, but it will take time.”
For future chefs and restaurant owners, food carts may be the perfect way into the industry. With lower overhead startup costs and more freedom, they provide the ideal atmosphere for starting up a small business. For those with no intention of opening a restaurant, the multitude of food carts in the city is always something to marvel at and enjoy!
