We all have a list of places we frequent: from coffee shops where we do homework, restaurants with our comfort foods, small bookstores, or theaters where we find gems. But in an era of convenience and social anxiety, it’s easy to forget what we appreciate about small businesses. Let us put on our anti-corporate hats and remind ourselves why we love businesses like these, appreciate their continual efforts, and treasure the place they hold in our community.
It can be easy to forget how weird it was when, five years ago, the whole world changed. During the COVID-19 pandemic, businesses had to make quick decisions about how they would proceed amid the global shutdown. Even when it seemed impossible, many businesses adapted to new conditions.
The pandemic proved that running a business requires a measure of consistency, but also a willingness for change. Tristan Sprague, the co-owner and general manager of the Sapphire Hotel, describes the pandemic as “wild for businesses, but especially small owner-operated businesses.”
For Common Grounds Coffeehouse on Hawthorne, the shop was shut down for a few months, then ownership was transferred to Matt Dudley, who opened it back up in August 2020. He implemented outdoor dining, window orders, and applied for a 5-minute parking zone so customers could quickly get coffee to-go. Dudley ensured that they stayed updated on the latest guidance, and “deferred to the expertise of the Oregon Health Authority (OHA) as to what was allowed, rather than taking a strict approach with our house rules.” This approach to safety allowed them to “safely serve the most cautious customers, as well as those who yearned for as back-to-normal of an experience as was allowed by the OHA at any given time.”
Pinolo Gelato on Division was opened in 2015 by Italian founder Sandro Paolini, who intended to create delicious, authentic gelato with the best possible ingredients. Quality of ingredients means quality of product, and supporting local businesses is a priority of Paolini’s. When he moved to Oregon, he worked with farms and greatly appreciated their methods and quality. When he started a business of his own, one of his goals was to use products from local farms because he wanted to support them.
He works with farms in Sauvie Island and Hood River to gather fresh fruits for his gelato flavors. Paolini chooses farms to use based on how they grow their fruits, making sure they practice sustainable agriculture and don’t use pesticides.. Their method is to “do everything from scratch” in order to create the most authentic product possible.
Culture and tradition are some of the driving forces behind their creation of flavors. “It was important for us to be authentic and bring the traditions that are behind gelato,” Paolini explains. He considers bringing Italian culture to Portland one of the greatest rewards of his business.
During the first few months of the pandemic, Pinolo Gelato served cups and to-go pints with no seating, experiencing overwhelming support from regular customers and the neighborhood, who Paolini describes as “Supporting us right away when we opened the door.”
Pinolo Gelato designed their seating to further a sense of kinship, with Paolini saying that getting gelato should be a way to “get a cup with friends, hang out, have fun.” Dudley agrees, saying, “We provide the space to bring people together.”
In addition to culture, older businesses can often show a place’s history. Sprague says, “Places like [The Sapphire Hotel] are important as a record of time and place.” From first dates to large gatherings or weekly dinners, owners and employees often get to see their patrons through the high and low points of their lives. “It’s so cool to see the city and the people grow and change around us,” says Sprague.
Before there was Apizza Scholls, there was Brian Spangler, making sourdough bread in a woodfire oven, working alone all week in a bakery he built for himself in Scholls, OR. The demanding nature of sourdough — Spangler likens it to “having a puppy” — meant that the Saturday Farmers Market was when he got to be around people and form relationships. During that time, he started inviting people he befriended to a Sunday pizza night. This four-year-long tradition eventually evolved from a casual hangout to a business demand. Spangler says, “People started asking me if they could buy them if they could come and grab a couple. Next thing I know, I’m making 60 pizzas on my day off.”
The increase in community and profit led Spangler to launch Apizza Scholls in Portland, which has been wildly successful, topping many lists. His path there hasn’t always been smooth; he says, “We’ve learned a lot. We’ve failed a lot.” Yet his endurance has ultimately led to success.
Most of the owners brought up the concept of failure. Dudley advises letting go of that idea, because, “Life is meant to be experienced firsthand. Within reason, there’s no such thing as failure, just valuable life lessons that will guide you the rest of your life and make life complete and fulfilling.”
Unease about the economy was one of the main voter issues in the 2024 election, and households can have both periods when they frequent restaurants and cafes, and times when they don’t. Sprague acknowledges this, saying, “The cost of goods, labor, and affordable housing has all affected the business in some way.” She adds that any challenges the Sapphire faces seem to be “deeply connected to the health of the regional and national economy.”
“The true secret to any successful business comes from the heart, the passion, the intent, the drive,” says Spangler. Paolini adds that a successful business needs to be creative, and often lucky. When businesses have these qualities, a strong community, and a profitable model, they’re likely to stay a treasured part of Portland for a long time.
