Portland’s Winter Wonderland: Peacock Lane

It’s mid-December, and Ted Brockwood, a loyal Peacock Lane resident, has just spent 12 long hours covering his house with elaborate “Peanuts”-themed decorations. He’s got everything you’d imagine, from a mockup of Snoopy’s house to a skating pond made of lights.

For those who don’t know, Peacock Lane is a four-block street in Portland, OR, just off César E. Chávez Blvd, between Southeast Belmont and Stark Street. It’s known for being one of the biggest and most popular holiday light displays in the city. Thanks to Richard Fleming Wassell, construction of the lane began in 1923. “[Wassell] was the imagination, architect, partner builder, and namer of the lane,” Steve Johnson, a Peacock Lane resident, says. “He designed the street [and] the houses and took advantage of this being one of the first neighborhoods to have driveways and garages,” Johnson explains. “When the lane was built, much of the surrounding area was still countryside.”

 The houses are straight from a storybook. They take inspiration from an English Tudor or cottage style. “[Wassell] didn’t live to see the completion of his passion project, but we all enjoy the fruits of his vision to this day,” Johnson says. In 2017, the lane was recognized as a national historic district, and since then, it’s been flourishing.

For the past few decades, the people of Peacock Lane have moved in and out and changed up their light displays and decorations, and yet the lane has maintained its reputation as one of the most visited spots during the holiday season in Portland. Over the years, Peacock Lane has also embraced the spirit of Halloween. “Looks like we could be the Christmas street and the Halloween street if we wanted to be,” Johnson says. 

A few years ago, the lane also introduced pedestrian-only nights. For two days in December, the road is closed to cars, so the public isn’t restricted to the sidewalks — this year, it will be on Dec. 15 and 16. “Pedestrian nights are full of such fun energy,” Valena Arana, a Peacock Lane resident, says. “The change that we have seen is mostly the increase in visitors each year. Each year, it has been fun for us to see how this event keeps getting better and better.”

Recently, Peacock Lane residents have been working to be more energy efficient. The old-style lighting has been replaced with power-saving LED lighting. The bulbs are also more durable, so they’re not being replaced as often as incandescent lighting would be. 

The community is just as inviting and supportive as you’d expect. “It’s funny because we’ve been approached by different TV networks to take part in great Christmas light showdown battle shows, and we turn them down every time, as we’re not in this to compete with one another,” Brockwood says. “My favorite part of living on Peacock Lane is my neighbors. It is so nice to live in a neighborhood where we all know each other and come together every year to make something special for our community,” Arana says. 

Like many of the residents, Brockwood and his family love that people get so happy to come out for a free light show during the holiday season. “It’s great seeing kids and adults get super excited to see the different themes like ‘Home Alone,’ ‘A Charlie Brown Christmas,’ ‘Star Wars,’ and more. And even the non-themed houses are pretty awesome!” Brockwood says. “They all have such a good time looking at the decorations and making fun memories. It is really great to be a part of that,” Arana adds.

“My favorite part of living on Peacock Lane is the constant energy around Christmas time. It’s wonderful to be a part of so many families’ holiday experiences and memories. I enjoy the holidays much more because I live [here],” says Flynn Hayford, a junior at Franklin and a Peacock Lane resident. 

The Peacock Lane festivities are incredibly nostalgic for many Portlanders. For kids and parents alike, the lane is a comforting and magical place to be. As a child, Heather Heck, a Portland resident of over 40 years, says, “I particularly loved walking Peacock Lane with a hot chocolate in hand. The sweet warmth with the shimmering lights — it was a treat for the senses.” Now, as an adult and a homeowner, she marvels at the coordinated effort these neighbors put into this gift to the city. “The labor, the expense, the inability to get to their own driveways for a month … I don’t think I could do that year after year. I’m wildly grateful for the people who joyfully put their resources towards the display,” she says. “[My mom and I] would walk to Peacock Lane and stroll the displays each year. We would take our time, milking the experience. We’d pick favorites; my mom always loved the Grinch.” 

A popular belief is that every resident on the lane is obligated to participate in the festivities, but this is actually not true. There is no homeowners association nor any other official body on the lane that makes Peacock Lane residents take part in the event. “The event has been going on for so long that everyone living or moving onto the lane [is] usually aware of the street’s history and [is] excited to be a part of the Portland tradition,” Arana says. 

Like any big holiday event, “There are some annoying things now and again, but nothing dramatic,” Brockwood says. “Though it is sad when bad weather makes it hard for people to come out and see the lights, or a few years ago when the weather caused a complete power outage!” Hayford adds, “There are not many negatives to living here, other than our cars becoming trapped.” It’s also notoriously challenging to find parking and navigate the crowds on busy nights, but the festive decorations always make it worthwhile. 

Each year, Henry Higgins Boiled Bagels provides cocoa and hot cider, which is completely free of charge during the event. The residents of Peacock Lane pay out-of-pocket for permits and traffic control materials, so “when people donate at the cocoa booth, that money really helps defray those costs,” Brockwood explains. The City of Portland, Sunnyside Neighborhood Association, and Southeast Uplift also offer logistical and administrative support.  “The care it must take to keep the tradition alive … is a heartwarming example of the holiday spirit,” Heck says. 

This year, the festivities are from Dec. 15-31 from 6-11 p.m. each night. Remember, the lane residents want everyone to have a good time, so if you plan on going this year, be respectful: park thoughtfully, dispose of garbage properly, go with the flow, and, most importantly, be patient and empathetic. “Be thankful. No one does this for money or self-interest,” Johnson says. “I hope the students of Portland take time to enjoy Peacock Lane this holiday season,” Heck states. “In doing so, I hope they see not only the lights but the generosity these community members put forth to wish us all happy holidays. That generosity is the most beautiful display of all. And maybe carpool or walk.”

While Peacock Lane has established itself as an iconic holiday event in Portland, there is much more to it than bright lights and hot cocoa. It shouldn’t be taken for granted; the immense effort and selflessness the residents put into creating a magical space for everyone to come together annually is inspiring. After all, some of the best, most nostalgic, and long-lasting memories are made here in Portland’s winter wonderland.